Ib 2013 – July – Ecuador & Galapagos – english 1. Flight – Vulcan Antizana – Amazonia/Napo River/Sani Lodge – Quito

TRIPREPORT

Birdwatching in Ecuador and on the Galapagos Islands

Wednesday: 26.06.2013  –  Flight Frankfurt – Madrid

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The „Kuehkopf“ (a Nature Reserve) and River Rhine 50 km south of Frankfurt/Germany

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Best view to Pic du Midi (Pyrenees)

From Madrid the Flight starts at 1:30 p.m. Lissabon was little cloudy the Atlantic more cloudy – also when we reached the coast of Venezuela 8 hours later.

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This Crater-Lake (Cuicocha – north of Quito: 3500 m) I saw about half an hour before landing

We arrived at Quito at 5:30 p.m. local time (Germany: 7 hours later)  – 11 hours after start at Madrid. Quito is at an elevation of 2800 m. Around the town: Vulcanos:  Pichincha (4784 m); Cayambe (5790); Antizana (5704) and Cotopaxi (5897 m). I really had a good view – beautiful landscape. The new airport opened in February 2013 – 1 hour drive to Quito by car. Costs were 35 $.  The accomodation I stood was  Aleidas Hostal – close to La Mariscal – 28 $ the night incl. breakfast. It´s nice there – the rooms are clean – perhaps a little clearaudient because sometimes groups arrive late in the evening.

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http://www.aleidashostal.com.ec

Thursday 27.6.2013

The night was not so good – I got nearly no sleep and had headache.

So the next morning I didn´t feel very well. But I planned to go to Antizana with my Guide: Marcelo Arias Murcia from Mindo (An excellent Guide!!! – (http://www.birdsofmindo.com).

So we went to the Paramo at the feet of Antizana – Elevation: 4000 m.  There we walked around – what´s not easy – because you feel the Hight.

Condors we looked for – first we had no luck. But other nice birds we found more easily in that wonderful Landscape:

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Paramo

The Vulcano Antizana has a high of 5700 m. We looked for Andean Condors  but where not lucky (later – on our way back to Quito we found three of them!) Also we found the  Black-Faced Ibisses.

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Antizana (5700 m)

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Caranculated Caracara

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Stout-Billed Cinclodes

Species:

Black-Faced Ibis ++

Silvery Grebe (3)

Andean Teal ++

Andean Ruddy-Duck (2)

Andean Condor (3)

Variable Hawk (some)

Black-Chested Buzzard-Eagle

Caranculated Caracara (some)

Andean Coot (some)

Andean Lapwing (some)

Andean Gull

Black-Winged Ground-Dove (2)

Ecuadorian Hill-Star

Andean Tit-Spinetail

Stout-Billed Cinclodes

Bar-Winged Cinclodes (some)

Tawny Antpitta (2)

Paramo Ground-Tyrant

Brown-Bellied Swallow

Great Thrush (at my Hostal in Quito)

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch

Rufous-Collared Sparrow (at my Hostal in Quito)

Unfortunately I didn´t use a sunblocker – so my face got a sunburn.

some more pictures from that wonderful area

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Paintbrush (you can also find in Canada!)

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Horsemen

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Andean Teal

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Andean Lapwing

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Black-Faced Ibis

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Andean Condor

4 pm I arrived at my Hostal. I feel very bad – maybe because of the Altitude. And I was tired. 6 pm I went to bed and slept well until 2 am. Now I felt much better and used the time to write my diary and some emails and I saved my pictures.

 

Friday 28.6.2013

Everything was good. The taxi picked me up at 7:00 am because my flight to Coca was 9:00 am. The flight was very nice with good views on the vulcanos Cotopaxi, Antizana und especially Cayambe – in the northeast of Quito.

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Antizana left – Cotopaxi  right

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Antizana

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In front Cayambe (5796 m) – left side behind the Antizana right side behind the Cotopaxi

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Half an hour later landing at Coca (Puerto Francisco de Orellana) – very hot and humid

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Napo River

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With a speed-boat we went about 100 km eastward down the Napo – River – eastern direction. Napo is a really very big river wich leads to the Amazonas. Never saw a bigger river in Europe  (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napo)

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We arrived at a landing point, get out of the boat and had a 15 minute walk into the rainforest. Then we reached another – small – river and went on by small Canoes. Half an hour later we arrived at the Sani Lodge – a wonderful place at a lagoon. It´s only by boat possible to go there. Really a paradise.

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Home 1

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I had a very very good „Native Guide“:  Guillermo.  Talking to each other was difficult – because I don´t speak spanish.  But Guillermo knows the english bird-names and the voices as well. And he know the places where the birds are

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Black-Fronted Nunbird

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Rufescent Tiger-Heron

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Hoatzin

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This lovely pet we also found!

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The meals where very delicious.

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And I slept very comfortable in a hut with much space!

Species:

Striated Heron

Rufescent Tiger-Heron

Greater Yellow-Headed Vulture

Turkey Vulture

Black Vulture

Speckled Chachalaca

Large-Billed Tern

Pale-Vented Pigeon

Cobald-Winged Parakeet

Orange-Winged Amazon

Squirrel Cuckoo

Hoatzin

Tawny-Bellied Screech-Owl

Common Potoo

Neotropical Palm-Swift

Black-Tailed Trogon

Amazonian White-Tailed Trogon

Ringed Kingfisher

Amazon Kingfisher

American Pygmy Kingfisher

Violaceous Jay

Scarlett-Crowned Barbet

Black-Fronted Nunbird

Cocha Antshrike

Silvered Antbird

Plumbeous Antbird (gehört)

Short-Crested Flycatcher

Great Kiskadee

Lesser Kiskadee

White-Winged Swallow

Turquoise Tanager

Masked-CrimsonTanager

Yellow-Rumped Cacique

Chrested Oropendola

Russet-Backed Oropendola

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This evening Guillermo found a Tarantula.

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The sky in the evening is wunderful. You can see many stars  and also very well the Milky Way. Until now the weather mostly was perfect

Samstag, 29.06.2013

My alarm-clock Rings at 4:15 am. 5 o´clock I had a very good breakfast.

Today Alex comes with us – I think he becomes also a bird-guide.

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5:30 we started by canoe. What a wonderful morning!

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 Our target was a tower of about 35 m. It´s built in the canopy of a big tree

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Fantastic view. We stay there until 10:00. Highlight was a Great Potoo 3 m above the platform

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Great Potoo

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Bat Falcon

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Double-Thoothed Kite

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Gildet Barbet

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Lettered Aracari

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Many-Banded Aracari

Back to the ground we walket slowly along a trail while Alex went back by boat.  It´s really hard there to see a bird. Guillermo noticed an Black-Faced Antthrush by the voice. We tried to find it but it was unpossible although we where very nearby offside the trail and Guillermo used a tape. The bird answered but didn´t show. After that we had some rain and went back to the lodge.

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Didn´t see a Jaguar but this  „Jaguar-Eye“!!!

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Without Rubber-Boots you´re beyond hope!

Species:

Little Tinamou (heard)

Undulated Tinamou (heard)

Capped Heron

Agami Heron

Slender-Billed Kite

Double-Thoothed Kite

Grey-Headed Kite

Slate-Colored Hawk

Crane Hawk

Bat Falcon

Spix‘ s Guan

Common Piping-Guan

Chestnut-Fronted Macaw

Black-Headed Parrot

Blue-Headed Parrot

Greater Ani

Great Potoo

Ladder-Tailed Nightjar

Straight-Billed Hermit

Gildet Barbet

Brown Nunlet

Golden-Collared Toucanet

Ivory-Billed Aracari

Lettered Aracari

White-Throated Toucan

Yellow-Tufted Woodpecker

Wedge-Billed Woodcreeper

Buff-Throated Woodcreeper

Plain-Winged Antshrike

Long-Winged Antwren

White-Flanked Antwren

Black-Faced Antthrush  (heard)

Crowned-Slaty Flycatcher

Plum-Throated Cotonga

Black-Capped Donacobius

White-Lored Euphonia

Opal-Rumped Tanager

Buff-Throated Woodcreeper

12:00 we reached the lagoon, where Alex waited in the canoe

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Before we came back to the lodge we noticed another nice bird: This Capped Hero

I had not many mosquitos! So I didn´t use nuch of the Anti-Mosquito-Spray I had with me. At the lodge it was absolutely no problem – and in my hut I had no one mosquito during the 5 nights I stayed there.

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At 3 pm we start for the afternoon-walk. We went on the  „Aguila-„ and the  „Pantano-Trail“ – which are close to the lodge

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We went  about 5 km and get back 6:20 pm. The trail often was muddy and sometimes we crossed a swamp like on the picture.

Species in the afternoon

Great Tinamou (heard)

Gray-Fronted Dove

Yellow- Crowned Amazon

Straight-Billed Hermit

Crimson-Crested Woodpecker

Purplish Jacamar

Spot-Winged Antbird (heard)

Black- Faced Antbird

Screaming Piha

Blue-Crowned Manakin

Thrush-Like Wren

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Evening – Athmosphere

Sonntag, 30.06.2013

Today we want to go to the Napo River

In the morning it was cloudy and a little misty.  But however – we get out. Until we arrived at the Napo River it didn´t rain.

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Then it begins to rain – first a little bit but then more. Suddenly the rain got harder. And our boat didn´t have a roof. So we became wet. We where lucky to find the group with the other people of the lodge, because their boat was with roof. At the parrot-lick we changed to the bigger boat. Otherwise I would have become as wet as if fallen into the river. So we could watch the parrots feeding the minerals and take some pictures.

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You are not allowed to go close to that steep.

Then the rain get really hard. It blows into the boat from aside. So me made a break at Yasuni   Women Community. The Yasuni there are about 500 People who live the riverside right and left Napo that area.  Sani Lodge is completly operated by the Yasuni people. My Guide – Guillermo also is  Yasuni.

In the Comminity we got a traditional meal:  Catfish with Palm-hearts in Banana Leafs.  Also cooked and broiled Bananas und Manioc-Roots.

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It tasted delicious!

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Here we saw a Southern Lapwing very wet!

Very nice was to watch some kids playing football on a  Stream-Sandbank while still raining. A pity – I didn´t take a picture.

Species

Yellow-Headed Caracara

Sungrebe

Southern Lapwing

Pied Plover

Collared Plover

Spot-Breasted Woodpecker

Little Woodpecker

Plumbeous Antbird gesehen

Tropical Kingbird

Social Flycatcher

Gray-Capped Flycatcher

Gray-Breasted Martin

House Wren

Casqued Oropendola

Orange-Backed Trupial

 1:00 pm :  Dinner – very good:   Soup, Cutlet, Vegetables, Salad und Peaches. And a fresh and delicious fruit-juice.

2:00 pm the rain stopped a I could continue taking pictures!

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Tropical Screech-Owl

3:00 pm we started for a wonderful boat-trip – upstream the little river which recarges the lagoon! About 5 km we canoed.

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We saw very nice birds:

amongst others:  Long-Billed Woodcreeper sitting and flying – I´m sorry not to have good pictures –  but some others are better I think:

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Hoatzins

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Black-Capped Donacobius

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any Iguana

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Spider Monkey (?)

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Squirrel Monkey

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Yellow-Rumped Cacique

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Amazonian White-Tailed Trogon

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Greater Ani

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Do you see the bird?

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Common Potoo

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this Tour was fantastic – so quite!

Finally: The best!

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Three Creamed-Colored Woodpeckers very close to us!

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6:30 pm we got back to the lodge – the sky looked for rain! Rain came when I was back at my room. So in total: another fantastic day!

Arten heute Nachmittag

Least Bittern (gehört)

Boat-Billed Heron

Limpkin

Plumbeous Kite

Tropical Screech-Owl

White-Chinned Jacamar

Yellow-Billed Nunbird

Cream-Colored Woodpecker

Striped Woodcreeper

Long-Billed Woodcreeper

Purple Honeycreeper

Silver-Beaked Tanager

Monday, 01.07.2013

Because the weather was fine we wanted to try again watching parrots at the parrot – Lick

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We started at 6:00 after Breakfast

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Again at the Napo – River!  Didn´t see the Umbrellabird again. But a Fruitcrow. Perhaps we are lucky with the Umbrellabird this afternoon.

Now we had problems withe the engine. Guillermo: „No good One“

Now we could experience the advance of the  Community:  We stopped at the next houses and changed the boat, which was much better.

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Here we found  White-Banded Swallows

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AT Parrot Lick the weather was fine today…..

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But not many parrots where there

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So we continue our boat-trip …….

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…… we  went to a sandbank in the middle of Napo River with gras and bushes. Here we found a lot of birds

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for Example this Chestnut-Bellied Seedeater

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On our way back…

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…we could identify this Black-And-White Hawk-Eagle

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A House from the Community

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Here grows coffee

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Coffee Blossom

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ripe and green beans

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dto.

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Cacao – Bean

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dto.

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Red Bananas

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Heliconia

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Moth

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A Gray-Winged Trompeter – tame (member of the fowl)

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To watch the Great Antshrike  we had to creep into the bush. Unbelievable what I did. But otherwise you don´t have good chances for this bird (at least that place).

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Above a Greater Yellow-Headed Vulture

After this we walked a trail on the other riverside – south of Napo-Rivers

There we found a pair of beautiful Black-Tailed Trogon.

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female

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male

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On the Trail

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Purple-Throated Fruitcrow – with backlight – bit you can notice the purplish throat!

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Nice Butterfly

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 dto,

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On our way back to the lodge Lodge……..

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006 Mo 01.07.2013 Napo River + Insel + Napo-Trails - 112 - Arbeitskopie 2

……. we found more nice birds – like this Amazon Kingfisher

Again we had to go into dense undergrowth ….

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…. where we found this White-Lored Antpitta.

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Here:  a White-Eared Jacamar

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 Olivaceous Woodcreeper

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On the Napo-River there are often such ferry-boats with big trucks

  The Umbrellabird again we didn´t found.

At 5:30 pm it started raining again.  The prevision was correct today.

Species

Snowy Egret

(Gray-Winged Trompeter)

Roadside Hawk

Black Hawk-Eagle

Black Caracara

Yellow- Billed Tern

Dusky-Billed Parrotlet

Dusky-Headed Parakeet

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl

Short-Tailed Swift

Olive-Spotted Hummingbird

Lineated Woodpecker

Green and Rufous Kingfisher

White-Eared Jacamar

Brown Jacamar

White-Necked Puffbird

Chestnut-Eared Aracari

Olivaceous Woodcreeper

Orange-Fronted Plushcrown

Great Antshrike

Black Antbird

Black and White Antbird

White Lored Antpitta

Yellow-Crowned Tyrannulet

Ochre-Bellied Flycatcher

Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant

River-Tyrannulet

Willow Flycatcher

Fuscous Flycatcher

Drab Water-Tyrant

Dusky-Capped Flycatcher

White-Winged Becard

Black-TailedTityra

Black-Crowned Tityra

Purple-Throated Fruitcrow

Bare-Necked Fruitcrow

Orange-Crested Manekin

Brown-Chested Martin

White-Banded Swallow

Black-Billed Thrush

Palm Tanager

MagpieTanager

Flame-Crested Tanager

Orange-Headed Tanager

Chestnut-Bellied Seedeater

Yellow-Browed Sparrow

Shiny Cowbird

Giant Cowbird

Tuesday,  02.07.2013

Early morning it still rains    –     but it was no heavy rain – only some shower.

First we go by boat – passing the lagoon until a trail.

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on the way: Black-Capped Donacobius

We walked about 8 km.  Every bird was hard work to find. Mostly the Chestnut Belted Tapaculo. It bounces on the ground deep in the dense and hide itself. It calls every time but don´t appear that you can watch it. Very difficult!.

But we where luccky. Because  of patience we saw it.

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Jungel Passion Fruit

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Noisy Night Monkeys

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Leaf – Cutting Ants

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White-Fronted Nunbird

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Wing-Barred Pipritis

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Warbling Antbird

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Golden-Headed Manakin

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Black-Throated Trogon

and the hole of an Armadillo

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Sometimes a little rain

1 o clock we where back at the lodge and had Lunch.

Some pictures from nearby the lodge:

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Masked-CrimsonTanager.

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4:30 we met againt. Guillermo wanted to try once more to show me the Umbrellabird. So we went again to Napo River.  Gooing softly by the small canoe is indescribable nice. So quite. And around that wonderful scenery of wilderness, trees, water and animals.

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By the way: Dusky Titi Monkeys and ……

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……. Pygmy Marmosette Monkeys.

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Again Guillermo found a Great Antshrike. And I could see it very good.

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But we got moray species: Crimson Crested Woodpecker,

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Black-Fronted Nunbird

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Speckled Chachalaca

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  Than we arrived at Napo River and went by boat to the island with the sleeping tree of the Umbrellabird.  We anchored at a big tree in the river and had to wait. Normally the bird flies from south to the island in the evening. But first we had no luck. We wanted just give up, when suddenly the bird comes. So I was lucky. It was the last chance for me that trip!!

Back again at the small canoo we tried to find the Crested Owl. But we where not lucky. But a Spectacled Owl we could find.

At 7 pm we where back at the lodge and I got a very good Dinner again.

This was my last day at Sani Lodge – Tomorrow I go back to Quito. I hope to come back to this wonderful place!!!!!

Insgesamt war Sani schon mal fantastisch.

Species Trail and Lodge

Yellow-Bellied Dacnis

Southern Beardless Tyrannulet

Rufous-Breasted Hermit

Golden-Headed Manakin

Black-Throated Trogon

Ruddy Quail-Dove

Black-Faced Antbird

Wire-Tailed Manakin

Rusty-Belted Tapaculo

Warbling Antbird

Wing-Barred Pipritis

Chestnut-Belted Gnateater

White-Fronted Nunbird

Striated Antthrush (gehört)

Scale-Backed Antbird

Ruddy Ground-Dove

Gray-Winged Trumpeter

Thick-Billed Euphonia

Great Antshrike

Crimson Crested Woodpecker

White Eyed Parakeet

Amazonian Umbrellabird

Blue and Yellow Macao

Spectacle Owl

Summe: (22/21)

Summe gesamt: (201/172)

Wednesday 03.07.2013

Today I could´t take any picture because I felt very bad!

02:45 am I woke up. Couldn´t sleep again. Didn´t feel good. I don´t think it was the meal – but don´t know. Perhaps an incompability. So I only took bananas this mourning.  And then it rained very hard. During the whole  4 hours to coca it rained hardly. That´s rainforest as well. So I felt more bad when I arrived at coca. But the organization was very good – the flight was in time and I arrived at Quito at 2pm.

Next day I wanted to go to Yanacocha – but I felt so bad, that I called my guide, Marcelo, and told him that I wanted to change our plan. So we decided to visit Quito the next day, if I feel better.

Thursday, 04.07.2013

 6:30 I woke up. Slept well – so I felt better. So we visited Quito.

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First we went to Panecillo, a hill from where you have a wonderful sight to the old town of Quito, the volcano Pichincha and the city around. Really a big city. Don´t know how big exactly – Marcelo told me there are living about 4 million people – wikipedia says: 1,5 millions.

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On top of panecillo there is a statue of Maria with Wings of an angel! Its the only statue in the world in this kind.

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View to south

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View westward with Pichincha – The weather was good – blue sky and clear – but the volcano Cotopaxi (doth of Quito) we could´t see because of clouds there.

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view northward – in front the old town

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Then we went to the Plaza Grande …..

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…… and next to Plaza de San Francesco. The church of San Francesco is nearly as old as the town. The church was beginning to built only a few years later than the town was founded in the 16. Century. Inside very pretty. Baroque stile.

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La Ronda is one of the oldest streets in Quito – Cobblestone pavement.

   After 3 hours I was groggy again – so we went back to my hostel.

3 pm it rained again with thunder and lightening. 5 pm I got a call from Columbia Travel. The driver who will pick me up tomorrow for going to the airport told me, we meet at 6:15 am.

Next page my travel to Galapagos…….

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Ein Kommentar zu “Ib 2013 – July – Ecuador & Galapagos – english 1. Flight – Vulcan Antizana – Amazonia/Napo River/Sani Lodge – Quito

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